I’m a lover of menswear, & men’s fashion is something I
thoroughly enjoy designing on and off.
The one wardrobe essential for all males, from every age,
cast, creed & country, is - a basic well-tailored suit.
Zegna, Gucci & Armani have by far, some of the most fabulous suits made.
It’s just their perfection in tailoring, hand-sewing and brilliant
craftsmanship that makes these suits so.. flawless.
But if you’re going in for another brand, or getting one tailored locally,
there’s a couple of things that are essential.
The intricacies of a well-tailored suit are never ending. I
could go on and on, picking on the necessary details required in a classic
suit, but I’m going to try and give a brief overview instead.
Quite obviously, it’s best to go in for a suit that suits
your personality & body type. But if we’re looking at basics, know that:
1.
A classic black suit is a key essential, if you
don’t have one in your wardrobe – please invest in one.
2.
The FIT – Often, I find that men go completely
wrong with suits that are just not their size. It’s extremely unflattering to
view an obviously ill fitted ensemble.
Perfection lies in the fact that a men’s suit jacket must fit snug-enough so as, the
front button closes just right, but loose enough for him to comfortably
breathe. That, in fact is an Italian suits-maker’s secret.
Make sure to avoid the excess bagginess
around the arm-hole, the unnecessary creases are a complete NO.
If the suit makes you look leaner, know you’ve picked the right one. Skinny trousers
look best on a lean frame. While a relatively greater amount of ease works well for a broader frame.
3.
The LENGTH – While focusing on the fit, many
forget the extreme importance of the fact that the length of the trouser &
suit jacket should be perfected based on your body type. Not too short, not too long. This is subjective.
4.
The FABRIC – If you’re going in for a classic
suit, I’d always suggest to opt for either pure wool or terry wool, based on
your personal requirement, choice & climate.
While pure wool is more expensive, it keeps you warm & is extremely
comfortable. Terry wool, on the other hand, keeps you cooler & is available
in a variety of price ranges. But since a classic black suit is a long-term
investment, don’t feel the pinch if you go in for a rather expensive brand of
fabric.
TRICK : If you take a part of the fabric, clasp it by holding it tight and then
release it, notice the structure. If it has wrinkled, don’t buy it.
5.
If you don’t like the feeling, don’t wear it.
It’s most necessary to feel good in what you’re wearing. If you think there’s
something that could be further perfected in your suit, don’t hesitate. Whether
it’s adding another button or altering by half an inch, do it if need be.
Perfection comes with practicing change.
6.
The DESIGN – Okay, there’s about a million
details under this bracket, so if I sit to elaborate, I’d be extending this
post largely. I could go into the intricate design details like, vented
pockets, flower loops, inter-linings,
cuff-links, etc, etc etc. So, before I get carried away, let’s stick to simple
basic design requirements
- POCKETS – In addition to the basic flap pockets, it is essential to have enough pockets to suit your requirement.
- LINING – If you’re getting your suit tailored from a local brand, then insist on the best quality of lining available. It may not be visible, but seek comfort first.
- LAPEL – The lapel could be very broad or narrow. There’s hundreds of lapel styles to choose from. Notched, shawl, rounded, double breasted, etc. But to keep it simple, a semi-narrow lapel suits most body frames. The very broad one’s aren’t particularly trending this decade.. or ever.
- VENT - Key design feature. A vent is the slit usually present at the back or on the sides of a suit jacket. A center back vent is evergreen. Side vents are a relatively more British trend. And no, don't even think of opting for a ventless suit jacket.
- TIE – Skinny ties are my personal favorite. Don’t opt for a thick tie unless you have to. (By “have to”, I mean unless it’s a life and death situation). In short, go in for a thin tie, please
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| Dolce & Gabbana |
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| Who summarizes "Suits" better? Ed Westwick |
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| Drake for GQ |
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| Ed Westwick for Philippe Plein |
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| Self-illustrated. |
So, that sums up my longest post till date.
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Thank you! <3
Thank you! <3
